Sikkim 3/Feb/2010

My wife, Dr. Jahnavi, and I decided it was time for a holiday. It had been a long time since we took a break, just the two of us—without our son. Surprisingly, our fourteen-year-old son was more than happy to let us go without him, which came as a pleasant surprise! We couldn’t help but notice how quickly he’s growing up and maturing.

The next question was, where should we go? We wanted a short holiday, and we needed it to be budget-friendly since we’re currently navigating some heavy expenditures. I had read some enthusiastic reviews about Sikkim on **IndiaMike.com** and knew that both local transport and hotel prices were significantly cheaper during the winter season—almost half the usual rates. We were never ones to shy away from a bit of adventure, even if it meant facing some biting cold, so I persuaded Jahnavi to give it a shot. After some convincing, she agreed. I reached out to Yaknyeti Travels in Gangtok by email and phone to book our stay (from the 3rd to 7th of February), along with local transport and sightseeing arrangements.

We had two options to reach Sikkim: either travel by train to New Jalpaiguri or fly to Bagdogra. Wanting a quick break from work, we decided on a flight. Bagdogra, however, doesn’t have direct flights from our nearest airports, Hyderabad or Chennai. After some research, I found that SpiceJet operates a flight from Chennai with a stop in Kolkata, where we wouldn’t need to deplane. This saved us a few hours of transit time, making it the ideal choice for our short getaway.

Day 1 (Feb 3rd)

Reaching Gangtok.

We reached Chennai by train in the early hours of February 3rd. We spent a few hours at my brother-in-law’s place, quickly freshened up, and had a light breakfast before heading to the airport in a Skoda to catch our SpiceJet SG 323 direct flight to Bagdogra. We left Chennai at 10:50 AM and arrived at Bagdogra at 2:40 PM.

Bagdogra Airport is a defense airport with a single runway, also allowing civilian flights to operate. The airport itself is small and straightforward—you simply walk down the stairs from the aircraft and continue on to the terminal. Military personnel were present everywhere, keeping the environment secure. As we entered the terminal, we heard a booming sound overhead and turned around just in time to see an Air Force jet take off in a flash. It was a sight that our son Aditya would have absolutely loved to witness at such close range. Unfortunately, photography is prohibited at this airport, but the experience is definitely one to remember.

As we exited the airport, we spotted the taxi driver sent by our travel agent, ready to take us to Gangtok in a Chevrolet Spark. The car was small but new, providing us with a sense of comfort for the long drive ahead. To our surprise, the driver had already seated an unauthorized passenger in the front—a lively young man who was quite chatty, keeping the driver engaged throughout the journey. In hindsight, it was probably a good thing we didn’t object to the extra passenger, as his presence seemed to keep the driver alert. The journey from the airport to Gangtok usually takes about four hours, and we were ready to embrace the scenic ride, even if it was a bit more crowded than we had anticipated.

Our journey ended up taking five hours, as our driver and his friend decided to help themselves to an hour of shopping at a makeshift vegetable market along the way. While they browsed, we wandered around the market for a bit, fascinated by the stunningly large vegetables and thick, fluffy greens. I even saw broccoli for the first time here!

The drive itself can be quite exhausting, and I quickly realized how important it is for the driver to handle the winding roads well. Unfortunately, our driver seemed intent on giving us a few real “bends in the tummy” with his rather abrupt steering. After some time, we made a short stop for tea at a roadside shack, run by a Nepali family. It was a simple setup with plastic tables and creaky chairs, but they offered quick bites like noodles, bread, and omelets. We were quite hungry by then, so we gladly ordered bread and omelet with syrupy tea to satisfy our appetite before continuing the journey.

Behind the counter of the roadside shack, I noticed a large poster of Sai Baba. As I looked around, I began to notice his pictures everywhere—behind taxis, on dashboards, and in various tea and snack shacks. Over the next few days, we spotted many more, as if Sai Baba’s presence was a comforting guardian on these winding mountain roads.

As daylight began to fade around 5:30 PM, the temperature also started to drop. The driver explained that February brings shorter days, fewer tourists, and generally a slower pace of work—perhaps one reason he picked up the extra passenger in the front seat, even if it was against the travel agent’s rules.

The drive from the plains of West Bengal to Gangtok took us through some challenging stretches of poorly maintained roads. The journey takes about four hours, with the last hour traversing through Sikkim after leaving West Bengal. As soon as we entered Sikkim, the difference was noticeable; the dwellings appeared more developed, and there were more signs of life along the way. One thing that caught our attention was the sudden increase in liquor shops—a surprising sight that hinted at the relaxed regulations in this state.

We finally entered Gangtok at around 8 PM, and by that time, it had gotten really cold. We reached our boarding place, Hotel Himalchuli, which had been arranged by our travel agent
The hotel had a quaint charm, but it didn’t quite meet our expectations—poor maintenance was evident, and the windows let in drafts of cold air. The hotel had certainly seen great times in the past. All it needs is just a few repairs. The view from the room is just awesome.

We managed to get through the night with the help of a room heater and plenty of blankets, but we quickly decided that we’d change hotels the next day. However, with plans to leave at 7 AM for Nathula Pass, and already feeling quite tired, we decided to stick it out for the night rather than go through the hassle of changing accommodations immediately.

Click here for Day 2

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